All-In Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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Concurrent with the “Teenage Dirtbag” meme on social channels are high school reveries on the catwalk that go beyond candy-colored Mean Girls suits. There was a preppy/boyish thread that ran through the spring 2023 men’s shows that was enlivened by skateboards at JW Anderson and ERL. Meryll Rogge, from Belgium, leaned into the jock (as depicted by Hollywood); prom looks were played with at Thom Browne. Then there was All-In’s Debutante collection, presented at the Collège-lycée Jacques-Decour in Montmartre that was a reasonable stand-in for a smells-like-teen-spirit gym in Anytown, America.

Benjamin Barron and Bror August, from the U.S. and Norway, respectively, and based in Paris, are the designers behind this upcycling label that’s something of an insider’s secret. Maryam Nassir Zadeh was an early supporter; Lotta Volkova modeled in last season’s couture-inspired collection; and Inti Wang, Leon Dame, Issa Lish, and Ceval were some of the faces who joined the coming out party for spring today. (Among the “chaperones” at this event was the Swedish Fashion Council who have been helping the designers structure the brand as part of their talent incubator program.)

One of the reasons to celebrate was All-In’s long-awaited (at least by me) shoe debut. There were sandals with straps hung with silver hearts, and slip-ons with pointy toes and detachable gaiters. As All-In pieces, made using vintage garments, are one-offs, accessories allow fans a way into the brand.

Fandom, which was manifested in the teen idol dress made from a collage of T-shirts featuring Madonna, Janet Jackson and the like, was one of the themes of the collection, said Barron. “I was inspired by this idea of a teenager collaging their idols onto their bedroom wall; collecting the things or the people that have inspired them and trying to take on different parts of their identities which have already been watered down from other parts of culture. Like someone learning about punk through Pink or hyper-femininity through Britney Spears.” August added: “It’s this idea of someone trying on different types of identities and styles for the first time and the failures that happen from this experience, or at least how you don’t really know the meaning of what you’re wearing. You’re indulging in aesthetics that you don’t actually have any understanding of, and the teenager is an archetypal symbol of that idea.”



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