Stine Goya Copenhagen Spring 2023 Collection

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The dismantling of Roe vs. Wade must be especially baffling to Scandinavians, who enjoy universal healthcare and expose advanced views on feminism. With “what is happening in the US now,” said Stine Goya post-show, “I think it’s important to remember that we still have far to go with women’s rights, I think [this collection] was really about finding the strength inside women who actually [could say] what they wanted to do, so the inspiration is the Riot Grrls” of the early ’90s.

The designer and her team channeled the spirit of these organizers and activists rather than their often grunge style. Goya’s women are increasingly dressed up to go out and show off; one sparkling mesh slip dress left almost nothing to the imagination. A beaded tunic and pants in white had a sophisticated maturity that some of the other almost “girly” frocks lacked. The predominance of party dresses is in part to meet the demands of the British market. Having established a separate office in London, the brand will open a flagship there this September.

Goya took her bow in a peak Copencore look: long button-down shirt with sequined pants and sneakers. It was her tailoring that felt most directional here, be it a pink beaded windbreaker and pants set, or a pantsuit (with cargo-style trousers) in one of Goya’s self-designed prints. The show opened with a series of solid colored looks, which is in keeping with a slight movement away from the prints that have long dominated the scene in the Danish capital.

Designed by the architectural firm Spacon & X, the show’s set consisted of sand pillars, set on hidden vibrating platforms, that collapsed during the show to reveal pink powder. “We wanted [the set] to inspire conversation,” said Goya, the main message was “to break down barriers.” What better way to do so than with some grrrl power?



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